Nga Nam
A few of us walk from our hotel to the waterfront of Nga Nam to have our morning coffee, buying some street food along the way. The coffee was the best part of the breakfast. On our way back we find a grocery store and I stock up on yogurt and bananas (my daily pre-breakfast which seems to be keeping my stomach from rebelling so far). Also some two-for-1 cheese flavoured potato chips and some cider for later.
A Non-biking Day
Today is an optional biking day. We can do a cycle around Nga Nam or something else of our choosing. Most of us live near the ocean and we love to be beside the sea, so we request an excursion to see where the river comes out into the South China Sea, or the East Sea as Nhi calls it.
It is too far to bike so we go by van. Along the way we stop at a museum in Bac Lieu which was the mansion of a wealthy man in the mid 1900s.
Mid Century Modern
The Cong Tu Bac Lieu mansion is decorated with large ornate inlaid furniture, as well as the most modern technology from the 1950s. We learn about the man, called the Prince of Bac Lieu, and how he squandered all his inherited wealth on women and gambling.
Where the Mekong Meets the Sea
We carry on to the sea and stop at a beach front resort type area that has not really recovered from Covid.
The sea where the Mekong arrives is as muddy as the river itself, of course. To the north there is a large group of wind turbines in the water.
We find a restaurant that is open and have a seafood lunch.
Swiftlet Spit Hotel
Along our journey Nhi points out these buildings with fake facades that are like hotels for birds. They are built to cultivate and gather the saliva of swifts used in making bird’s nests.
Earlier I had noticed that one of my bottled drinks contained bird’s nest and Nhi said that it was considered a health ingredient and was very expensive. So my drink probably had very little in it. Thank goodness!
Nga Nam to Can Tho by boat
We leave Nga Nam by two boats the next day. It’s a long noisy two and a half hour ride up the river. We sit on the bottom of the boats. I keep changing positions so I don’t seize up. Thank you yoga for keeping me a little flexible!
We actually don’t go as far as Can Tho by boat. We stop for lunch on the Tan Lap Canal. Then it is a 33 km bike ride the rest of the way.
Homestay – A Misnomer
We reach the homestay in Can Tho just before dark and celebrate our long tiring day with beers.
Though it’s called a homestay, it is not someone’s home. Nor is it the one that had been used in previous trips. That one closed down during Covid. It turns out to be a “resort” that has seen better days.
A view of my hut from the river.
Breakfast One – An Unwanted Guest
A very early wake-up to discover my banana half-eaten on the floor. Not sure what ate it – a gecko, a lizard, a mouse or a rat? The possibilities are unfortunately many and unnerving.
But we must be out on the boats by 6 am for the boat ride to the floating market so I can’t dwell on the banana until I try to sleep tonight in the same room.
Breakfast Two – The Floating Market
There are boats that sell all types of fruit and other boats that offer coffee and pho. We try all three.
I mostly see more tourists at the floating market than locals. I wonder if tourists didn’t come for breakfast on the water, would they still make it? I suppose the people who sell other items would buy the food and drink. Hard to know but perhaps Covid has hastened a decline to the floating market or might it bounce back?
Night Moves
We stop at a rice noodle factory before heading back to the Homestay. We have the afternoon off for a nap or a rest. Then head back into Can Tho by van for dinner and the night market there. We have a delicious dinner at a restaurant along the riverside, then do some shopping and I buy a purple silk dress.
I’m asleep by 11 but wake up at midnight in a sweat. I can’t get back to sleep with thoughts of banana-eating rats, holes in the mosquito netting and the fast whirring fan above my head. When was the last time someone checked the stability of the fan? Despite the heat, I shut it off before it falls and kills me.
Can Tho to Sa Dec
It’s a 55 km bike ride to Sa Dec. If we survive the Can Tho traffic on the way to the ferry. I keep my wits about me with motor bikes coming and going in all directions.
Causing a Stir!
Along the way we need a water/bathroom break but there are no nearby cafes. Nhi finds a local school with a little canteen that welcomes us.
But the noise!! We sit amongst 20 or so screaming, shouting, laughing 6-10 year olds! We have caused quite a stir and they are so excited to see big, white foreigners in ridiculous biking clothing.
Now Here It Is – Your Moment of Mosaic
Again from the My Tho Pagoda.