Tesserae of Travels Through Life - Words, photos and moments of mosaics.
Tra Cu – Soc Trang – Nga Nam
Tra Cu – Soc Trang – Nga Nam

Tra Cu – Soc Trang – Nga Nam

It is an early start today – 7:15. We have to bike to breakfast, the hotel has no restaurant. Our first stop after breakfast is a war memorial with rows of graves from conflicts with France, the USA and Cambodia.

Today we cross the Mekong several times, including a crossing which begins in a narrow arm and opens up into a wide expanse. It is breathtaking.

Today the weather is very overcast and a little cooler than the usual 30 degrees we’ve been used to. It makes the cycling a little easier.

At least until the heavens open up.

Who’ll Stop the Rain?

We stop for lunch in Long Phu and while we wait in a cafe for lunch, the rain begins.

A woman brings spring rolls from across the street. A young girl in a rain poncho and on a bike, balances a tower of pho.

We eat and then wait in vain for the rain to let up. Finally some of us take the van the rest of the way to Soc Trang, while the heartier ones ride in the rain for an hour and a half.

Very Hot Pot

In the evening the rain finally dissipates and we walk to our restaurant for dinner only to find it closed. Nhi finds another place but it requires a drive so she summons Mr. Tam, our van driver, to pick us up.

Mr. Tam is a youthful, calm and kind man. He is a cautious driver who doesn’t speak much English and prefers to eat apart from us.

We have do-it-yourself bucket bbq for dinner and the heat from the fire on the table is intense. And the food is delicious.

But wait there is more. Hot pot shows up on the table and we dine very well cooking for ourselves.

No biking today. We are on our own for breakfast and head to a recommended bakery for something different than our usual fare (beef stew, pho or eggs). I get a few little pastries. My favourite is a swirled red bean paste thing. But it isn’t as cute as the little fish with custard inside.

We find a coffee (caphe) shop and eat there.

Then we head for the market. I decide to take it all in instead of shopping. It is Sunday today and the market is busy. It’s not just crowded with people, it’s crowded with people on motor bikes shopping. Those of us on two feet have to constantly look out!

To be fair though, there is no place for any of them to park.

Though I vowed not to buy anything I somehow end up with a pair of pink checkerboard silky pjamas! Oh and a cute little outfit for my baby granddaughter.

Off we go with the group for a visit to two pagodas – Chua Sa Lon and Chua Doi. The first is a very popular pagoda with lots of other tourist buses in a big parking lot. The second one, the Bat Pagoda is an old Khmer pagoda with bats hanging in the trees.

A Taste of Cakes and Crowds

For lunch we stop at the Tan Hue Vien Bakery, a huge complex full of crowds of people. It is a Pia Cake factory, which makes these cookies/cakes that are popular worldwide. We eat in the cafeteria then brave the gift shop with the hordes and taste all the free samples.

Today we cycle 50 km from Soc Trang to Nga Nam. Through many rice fields and rural areas.

Our first stop is for coffee at My Tu Phu My pagoda. It is being renovated but the temple and flowers are lovely.

This is a typical lunch stop place. We can order drinks here but the lunch comes from some other place which Nhi orders. Then it shows up on a motorbike, of course. Today it is delivered on plates which is a welcome change from styrofoam containers.

Nga Nam is located at the confluence of five river branches: Vinh Quoi, Thanh Tri (Soc Trang Province), Long My, Phung Hiep (Hau Giang Province), and Ca Mau. 

There was once a floating market here but it seems that Covid has put an end to it somewhat. But it is still a beautiful spot to watch the river traffic go by.

From Chua Sa Lon pagoda in Soc Trang.

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